Subwoofers
Thursday, April 24, 2008
What Type of Subs Should I Buy?
Well, if you ask me, I would recommend you purshase either Kickers or Rockford Fosgates. The reason why i resommend these two types of subs, is because I have had some great experience with them. My last car had two 12 inch Fosgates, and let me tell you. They most definitely rocked my entire block. I currently have 2 12 inch Kickers and they sound GREAT! I love them because they can handle the high, low, and mid bass.
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
How to Install Speakers in Your Car
Installing new speakers is the single most cost-effective improvement you can make to your vehicle's audio/video system. Not only are aftermarket speakers relatively inexpensive, they are typically not difficult to install.
You can install many of the speakers we sell with a few tools that you probably have around your house. The free brackets, wiring harnesses, and detailed instructions that Crutchfield will send you with the speakers you buy from us (when available for your specific vehicle) will save you time and effort.
What you'll need to complete the job
Each car presents its own specific type of installation issues, varying on factory speaker locations, mounting depth and height, and the vehicle's factory wiring. Many installations are straightforward — a screwdriver might be all that you require to complete the job. Other installations can be more involved, particularly if you're installing component speakers. Your MasterSheet™ instructions from Crutchfield will specify the exact tools you need, and walk you through the process step-by-step.
The tools you'll need might include, but aren't limited to:
a variety of screwdrivers (Phillips, stubby Phillips, flat-blade, and magnetic or offset screwdrivers)
Torx drivers and bits
drill (with screwdriver and bits)
Allen wrenches
socket wrench set
wire cutter/stripper tool
soldering iron and solder
crimping tool and connectors
panel removal tool
retaining clip remover (or a screwdriver covered with a shop rag)
a file
electrical tape
exacto knife
General Tips
Every car is different, so you may encounter issues that differ from the ones described here. Here are a few general tips to keep in mind as you plan your speaker installation.
Types of installations
After you identify your vehicle on our Vehicle Selector and select the mounting location, you'll see which speakers fit your car. Speakers labelled "E-Z" will fit in the factory speaker openings and use the factory grilles and brackets. The magnet fits the available space and the tweeters won't interfere with your grilles.
Other sizes — labelled "P" — fit with the aid of a mounting bracket (free with speaker purchase), or with minor modifications (such as drilling new screw holes, cutting a small area of metal or pressboard, or filing cardboard or plastic to make room for a speaker that is larger than the factory opening).
Component speaker systems include separate woofers, tweeters, and crossovers. The component woofers will install in your factory speaker locations, but the tweeters usually require custom installation. This typically involves drilling holes in the door panels or dash, depending on where you choose to mount the tweeters.
If Q-Logic makes a Q-Form replacement kick panel for your vehicle, you can mount both the woofer and tweeter in the custom-fit enclosure. Depending on the vehicle, you may have to bend or relocate the parking brake pedal or other parts. Enter your vehicle in the Vehicle Selector and click on the Kick Panel Enclosures tab to see specific information on installation details for your vehicle.
When you install your new speakers, you'll have a set of free instructions specific to your vehicle, as well as free Crutchfield speaker wiring harnesses (when available), which eliminate the need for splicing.
Replacing dash speakers
Most dash speakers are easily replaced by removing the grilles, which are held down by screws or friction fittings. You might need to use a 90-degree (offset) screwdriver to get at the screws near the windshield.
If the grille is held in place by friction fittings, carefully pry it up. To avoid scratching or cracking the surrounding dash as you do this, it's a good idea to put something broad and flat (like a putty knife) underneath whatever you're using to pry up the grille.
If the application of slight pressure is not enough to remove the grille, proceed cautiously. In some cases the grille is secured from below by screws, or by plastic studs which can break with excessive force. In such cases, the entire dash panel may need to be removed.
Remove the old speakers, making sure to note the polarity of each terminal. (The speaker's positive terminal is the larger of the two, and usually is marked with a "+" or a colored dot.) Use your wiring harness to attach the new speaker, or solder or crimp the connections as your installation requires.
Don't use electrical tape to secure the connections. Because your dash is subject to more temperature and climate extremes than almost any other part of your vehicle's interior, the electrical tape will deteriorate in short order, and you'll run the risk of a loose connection.
Replacing door speakers
In many cars, door speakers are the easiest to replace. In many newer cars, manufacturers have notched a slot into the edge of the grille. All you have to do is take a screwdriver, pop out the grille, and unmount the factory speaker.
Some grilles are mounted by screws or friction fittings, and require you to remove the screws or pry the grille to remove the speaker. There are three basic steps to replacing a door speaker in a vehicle like this.
Step 1. Remove the grille and factory speaker. Be gentle with the speaker, since it probably is attached to a wiring harness and you might want to reinstall the factory speakers if you sell the car later. Some manufacturers also use a sealant or foam when they first mount the speaker — you might need to cut through that material with a utility knife.
For many speakers, Crutchfield supplies plug-in harnesses to simplify wiring.
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Step 2. Unplug the factory wiring harness, and attach the Crutchfield wiring harness to your new speaker's terminals, again making sure that the polarity is correct. With the wiring harness connected to your new speaker, simply plug the other end of the harness into the factory wiring harness. If a wiring harness is unavailable, you will need to solder or crimp the connections. Test the speaker before you put it into place.
Step 3. Check one last time to be sure that all of your wiring is secure, then screw the new speaker into place in the factory mounting and re-attach the factory grille.
If you have to remove the door panel
In some cars, you'll have to remove the door panels to get the factory speakers out. As always, your Crutchfield instructions will walk you through this procedure step by step. Start with the window crank. Some are secured with a screw at the pivot, which is sometimes hidden by a piece of snap-on trim.
A panel tool can help you remove window cranks without damaging your vehicle's interior.
Most, however, are held in place by a spring clip. We carry an inexpensive retaining clip tool designed to remove this clip, but with a little more effort you can also do it using a small flat-head screwdriver. Depress the surrounding door panel, look behind the window crank, and rotate the handle until you see the spring clip. Then gently push it off with the screwdriver.
After removing the window crank, remove the armrest (usually secured with a few Phillips head screws) and any trim around the door handle. The only thing holding the door panel on now should be a half dozen friction fittings and possibly a few more screws.
With all the screws removed, start at a bottom corner and pull the panel straight out. Use our trim panel tool or a large flat head screwdriver. Once the corner is loose, work across the bottom of the door panel and up both sides, again being careful not to use too much force. With the bottom and sides loose, the panel should now be hanging by some trim that sticks down into the window well. Lift straight up and it should come free. Replace the speakers as described in the previous section.
You can install many of the speakers we sell with a few tools that you probably have around your house. The free brackets, wiring harnesses, and detailed instructions that Crutchfield will send you with the speakers you buy from us (when available for your specific vehicle) will save you time and effort.
What you'll need to complete the job
Each car presents its own specific type of installation issues, varying on factory speaker locations, mounting depth and height, and the vehicle's factory wiring. Many installations are straightforward — a screwdriver might be all that you require to complete the job. Other installations can be more involved, particularly if you're installing component speakers. Your MasterSheet™ instructions from Crutchfield will specify the exact tools you need, and walk you through the process step-by-step.
The tools you'll need might include, but aren't limited to:
a variety of screwdrivers (Phillips, stubby Phillips, flat-blade, and magnetic or offset screwdrivers)
Torx drivers and bits
drill (with screwdriver and bits)
Allen wrenches
socket wrench set
wire cutter/stripper tool
soldering iron and solder
crimping tool and connectors
panel removal tool
retaining clip remover (or a screwdriver covered with a shop rag)
a file
electrical tape
exacto knife
General Tips
Every car is different, so you may encounter issues that differ from the ones described here. Here are a few general tips to keep in mind as you plan your speaker installation.
Types of installations
After you identify your vehicle on our Vehicle Selector and select the mounting location, you'll see which speakers fit your car. Speakers labelled "E-Z" will fit in the factory speaker openings and use the factory grilles and brackets. The magnet fits the available space and the tweeters won't interfere with your grilles.
Other sizes — labelled "P" — fit with the aid of a mounting bracket (free with speaker purchase), or with minor modifications (such as drilling new screw holes, cutting a small area of metal or pressboard, or filing cardboard or plastic to make room for a speaker that is larger than the factory opening).
Component speaker systems include separate woofers, tweeters, and crossovers. The component woofers will install in your factory speaker locations, but the tweeters usually require custom installation. This typically involves drilling holes in the door panels or dash, depending on where you choose to mount the tweeters.
If Q-Logic makes a Q-Form replacement kick panel for your vehicle, you can mount both the woofer and tweeter in the custom-fit enclosure. Depending on the vehicle, you may have to bend or relocate the parking brake pedal or other parts. Enter your vehicle in the Vehicle Selector and click on the Kick Panel Enclosures tab to see specific information on installation details for your vehicle.
When you install your new speakers, you'll have a set of free instructions specific to your vehicle, as well as free Crutchfield speaker wiring harnesses (when available), which eliminate the need for splicing.
Replacing dash speakers
Most dash speakers are easily replaced by removing the grilles, which are held down by screws or friction fittings. You might need to use a 90-degree (offset) screwdriver to get at the screws near the windshield.
If the grille is held in place by friction fittings, carefully pry it up. To avoid scratching or cracking the surrounding dash as you do this, it's a good idea to put something broad and flat (like a putty knife) underneath whatever you're using to pry up the grille.
If the application of slight pressure is not enough to remove the grille, proceed cautiously. In some cases the grille is secured from below by screws, or by plastic studs which can break with excessive force. In such cases, the entire dash panel may need to be removed.
Remove the old speakers, making sure to note the polarity of each terminal. (The speaker's positive terminal is the larger of the two, and usually is marked with a "+" or a colored dot.) Use your wiring harness to attach the new speaker, or solder or crimp the connections as your installation requires.
Don't use electrical tape to secure the connections. Because your dash is subject to more temperature and climate extremes than almost any other part of your vehicle's interior, the electrical tape will deteriorate in short order, and you'll run the risk of a loose connection.
Replacing door speakers
In many cars, door speakers are the easiest to replace. In many newer cars, manufacturers have notched a slot into the edge of the grille. All you have to do is take a screwdriver, pop out the grille, and unmount the factory speaker.
Some grilles are mounted by screws or friction fittings, and require you to remove the screws or pry the grille to remove the speaker. There are three basic steps to replacing a door speaker in a vehicle like this.
Step 1. Remove the grille and factory speaker. Be gentle with the speaker, since it probably is attached to a wiring harness and you might want to reinstall the factory speakers if you sell the car later. Some manufacturers also use a sealant or foam when they first mount the speaker — you might need to cut through that material with a utility knife.
For many speakers, Crutchfield supplies plug-in harnesses to simplify wiring.
-->
Step 2. Unplug the factory wiring harness, and attach the Crutchfield wiring harness to your new speaker's terminals, again making sure that the polarity is correct. With the wiring harness connected to your new speaker, simply plug the other end of the harness into the factory wiring harness. If a wiring harness is unavailable, you will need to solder or crimp the connections. Test the speaker before you put it into place.
Step 3. Check one last time to be sure that all of your wiring is secure, then screw the new speaker into place in the factory mounting and re-attach the factory grille.
If you have to remove the door panel
In some cars, you'll have to remove the door panels to get the factory speakers out. As always, your Crutchfield instructions will walk you through this procedure step by step. Start with the window crank. Some are secured with a screw at the pivot, which is sometimes hidden by a piece of snap-on trim.
A panel tool can help you remove window cranks without damaging your vehicle's interior.
Most, however, are held in place by a spring clip. We carry an inexpensive retaining clip tool designed to remove this clip, but with a little more effort you can also do it using a small flat-head screwdriver. Depress the surrounding door panel, look behind the window crank, and rotate the handle until you see the spring clip. Then gently push it off with the screwdriver.
After removing the window crank, remove the armrest (usually secured with a few Phillips head screws) and any trim around the door handle. The only thing holding the door panel on now should be a half dozen friction fittings and possibly a few more screws.
With all the screws removed, start at a bottom corner and pull the panel straight out. Use our trim panel tool or a large flat head screwdriver. Once the corner is loose, work across the bottom of the door panel and up both sides, again being careful not to use too much force. With the bottom and sides loose, the panel should now be hanging by some trim that sticks down into the window well. Lift straight up and it should come free. Replace the speakers as described in the previous section.
Monday, April 21, 2008
How To Hook Up Your Own Subs
First thing first. I've been hooking up sounds for not only myself but my freinds and my freinds friends. It's relatively easy if you ask me. Before I get into detail about how to hook up your sounds, you first need to know everything to purchase. Below is a list of items you must have in order to connect your subwoofers.Items needed to hook up Subs:
1) Power kit w/(RCA) cords
2) Subwoofers & Encloser/Box
3) Amplifier(s)
Nextly, once you have purchased all of the required items, you are ready to hook up everything to your car stereo. O.K. inside the Power Kit are: the power wire, ground wire, RCA wires, speaker wires, and remote wire (this wire sends the signal from the radio to the subwoofers). I strongly suggest you connect the power wire and the ground wire last. This will make sure that you don't blow anything. I've been doing this for a very long time and I haven't blown a amp or speaker, so you will be just fine. The First wires you want to connect is the remote wire. This wire is very small. It connects to the small terminal on the amp and connects to the AC cord in the back of your stereo. Since your already connecting the AC cord in the back of your stereo, you minus well connect the RCA cords as well. This is extremely easy. The next wires you want to connect is your speaker wires. This wires are positive and negatve (Red&Black). So make sure you connect the positve with positive and negative with negative. This is very easy, almost common sense. After your down with that. you can connect your power (red thick) wire to your amp, (NOT THE BATTERY JUST YET). This connects to the power terminal on your amp. You should have no problem finding this. After that connect your ground wire (black) to the amp. It will say ground on the terminal. Once this has been done you must find a spot in your trunk to bolt down the ground wire. If your trunk has carpet, your going to have to pull a section up and you'll need bolt the end of the ground wire (black) that is not connected to the amp into a metal part of your trunk. After that, you are ready to connect the power wire (red thick) to the positive terminal on your car's battery. Howerver, for doing so, you must connect the fuse that comes in the kit. It slides into the fuse holder on the power wire (red think) and twist together. Make sure you twist it very tight together. Once that has been done, you are ready to test your speakers out.
If you have any questions please post on my blog.Good luck, and I hope that I was helpful. Thanks for visiting my site, and please refer your friends. Have fun Bumping your music.
-Juan-
Here's a couple of Tips that always seem to help me:
Work with a experienced buddy to help troubleshoot and save time.
Use a amplifier that is not cheap because the cheap ones blow up when you crank the volume or use them for long periods of time.
Same goes for the subs.
Make sure you wire the subs to the correct ohmage, some amps cannot handle certain ohm loads, be very careful!
Many car audio stores do installation for you if you are unsure or inexperienced.
Also some Warnings:
Always disconnect the negative battery terminal when working with automotive electronics.
Be careful with razor blades they are sharp and can severely cut you.
Always wear safety glasses they could save your eyes.
Always fuse your positive line or fire/ damage to your unit could result.
Always work with a experienced buddy.If you can't do it just take it to a trained professional. They know what they're doing and they wont blow up your unit or car.
1) Power kit w/(RCA) cords
2) Subwoofers & Encloser/Box
3) Amplifier(s)
Nextly, once you have purchased all of the required items, you are ready to hook up everything to your car stereo. O.K. inside the Power Kit are: the power wire, ground wire, RCA wires, speaker wires, and remote wire (this wire sends the signal from the radio to the subwoofers). I strongly suggest you connect the power wire and the ground wire last. This will make sure that you don't blow anything. I've been doing this for a very long time and I haven't blown a amp or speaker, so you will be just fine. The First wires you want to connect is the remote wire. This wire is very small. It connects to the small terminal on the amp and connects to the AC cord in the back of your stereo. Since your already connecting the AC cord in the back of your stereo, you minus well connect the RCA cords as well. This is extremely easy. The next wires you want to connect is your speaker wires. This wires are positive and negatve (Red&Black). So make sure you connect the positve with positive and negative with negative. This is very easy, almost common sense. After your down with that. you can connect your power (red thick) wire to your amp, (NOT THE BATTERY JUST YET). This connects to the power terminal on your amp. You should have no problem finding this. After that connect your ground wire (black) to the amp. It will say ground on the terminal. Once this has been done you must find a spot in your trunk to bolt down the ground wire. If your trunk has carpet, your going to have to pull a section up and you'll need bolt the end of the ground wire (black) that is not connected to the amp into a metal part of your trunk. After that, you are ready to connect the power wire (red thick) to the positive terminal on your car's battery. Howerver, for doing so, you must connect the fuse that comes in the kit. It slides into the fuse holder on the power wire (red think) and twist together. Make sure you twist it very tight together. Once that has been done, you are ready to test your speakers out.
If you have any questions please post on my blog.Good luck, and I hope that I was helpful. Thanks for visiting my site, and please refer your friends. Have fun Bumping your music.
-Juan-
Here's a couple of Tips that always seem to help me:
Work with a experienced buddy to help troubleshoot and save time.
Use a amplifier that is not cheap because the cheap ones blow up when you crank the volume or use them for long periods of time.
Same goes for the subs.
Make sure you wire the subs to the correct ohmage, some amps cannot handle certain ohm loads, be very careful!
Many car audio stores do installation for you if you are unsure or inexperienced.
Also some Warnings:
Always disconnect the negative battery terminal when working with automotive electronics.
Be careful with razor blades they are sharp and can severely cut you.
Always wear safety glasses they could save your eyes.
Always fuse your positive line or fire/ damage to your unit could result.
Always work with a experienced buddy.If you can't do it just take it to a trained professional. They know what they're doing and they wont blow up your unit or car.
How to Install Subwoofer Encloser in Your Car
Things You’ll Need:
Wire cutters
Screwdriver set
Electrical tape
Wire strippers
New car stereo (head unit)
Muste be ready for the Job
STEPS:
1. Purchase a new stereo. Make sure to get one that will fit properly into the slot for your old one. In addition, when buying a new car stereo you may be able to get a wiring harness that is specific to both your car's make and model AND the new stereo. Buy one of these if you can because it will make the wiring a snap, literally!
2. Collect these tools and materials: screwdrivers, wire strippers, wire cutters and electrical tape.
3. You will also need a guide to removing the dash panel of your car that shows how to properly remove your old radio.
How to Remove your Old Stereo Steps:
1. Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
2. Remove the dash panel that covers your stereo. Unscrew and slide out your old head unit. There will either be one single plug with lots of wires that connects to the back of it or a bunch of individual wires. If there are a bunch of single wires going into the back of the stereo do not detach them yet since you will want to do them one at a time to avoid confusion.
3. Plug the connector into your new wiring harness, if your were able to get a wiring harness for your car. This will then plug right into the back of your new stereo. If you did this you can skip the next section.
How to Connect the Wiring Manually Steps:
1. Connect each wire yourself if your were unable to obtain a wiring harness to install your car stereo.
2 Connect the positive wire from each speaker to the positive connector on the back of the stereo first. Then connect the negative wire from each speaker to the negative connector on the back of the stereo. If there is only one wire coming from the speakers, the speakers are grounded at the chassis. In this case you will need to install new speaker wiring.
3. Connect the ground (-/black) wire of the stereo to a screw or bolt near where the radio is mounted in the dash. Make sure the wire is attached to metal, not plastic or fiberglass.
Step4Connect the 12 constant and ignition power wires (both +/red) to the new stereo. Refer to your stereo's installation manual to make sure these go to the correct places.
How to Putt in the Car Stereo Steps:
1. Now you should have a nice single connector that hooks to all the proper wires in your car--either from the wiring harness you purchased or the one that came with your stereo that you have now connected all the proper wires to.
2. Slide your new stereo into the mounting bracket that came with it. In some rare cases you may have to use the bracket from your old car stereo.
3. Plug the harness connector into the back of your new stereo. There should be only one lone ire left from your old stereo now. This is the antenna. Plug it into your new unit. There may also be a power antenna wire which you will need to connect.
4. Slide your new car stereo into the slot in the dash. Don't screw it in yet; you'll need to test it first.
5. Reconnect the negative cable of your car to the battery.
6. Turn your car on and power up your new stereo. Put some music on and listen to all your speakers to make sure everything works.
7. Screw your new car stereo into place and put the dash cover back on.
If you have any questions, please fill free to post a note on this page. Thanks and Enjoy!
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
How to hook up tweeters
The easy way to hook up tweeters in your ride is be to connect them to your front speakers or rear 6/9 speakers. However, you will need to purchase bass blockers so that your can't blow your tweeters out. Follow the steps below:
Steps:
1) Make sure that your radio is off so that you can un-screw your speakers and tap into the wires that run to the radio. What I usually do is unplug the the wire from the terminals and twist the wires from the tweeters to that end. Most of the time you have to purchase additional speaker wire because the wires that come with the tweeters are usually too short.
2) Now, rather your planning on hooking up the tweeters through your front or rear speakers. you still have to make sure that you drill a whole through the side panel and insert the wires from the out side of the panel. This will allow you to mount the tweeters on the panel once you install them.
3) This is very IMPORTANT. So not that you have the tweeter speaker wires going through the side panel, you need to connect the tweeter wire to the bass blocker, and the bass blocker to the extra speaker wire. All you have to do is twist one end of the bass blocker to one end of the tweeter wire and the other end of the bass block to the one end of the extra speaker wire, and put black electrical tape over it. Now, you have to twist the other end of the tweeter wire to the other end of the extra speaker wire and rape black electrical tape over it as well.
4) After you have run the wires into place, take the end of the speaker wire that is running from the tweeters and stick it into or rape it around the end of the terminal of the interior speakers.
5) At this point you should be able to turn on your radio and hear sound coming from your tweeters.
6) Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the other tweeter.
7) In addition, I had connected 4 tweeters in my last car. I had two bridged off the front speakers and the other two bridged off the rear.
8) I must WARN you that two is enough. I nearly blown my ear drums with four.If you found this helpful. Please feel free to post a note. Thanks and enjoy.
Steps:
1) Make sure that your radio is off so that you can un-screw your speakers and tap into the wires that run to the radio. What I usually do is unplug the the wire from the terminals and twist the wires from the tweeters to that end. Most of the time you have to purchase additional speaker wire because the wires that come with the tweeters are usually too short.
2) Now, rather your planning on hooking up the tweeters through your front or rear speakers. you still have to make sure that you drill a whole through the side panel and insert the wires from the out side of the panel. This will allow you to mount the tweeters on the panel once you install them.
3) This is very IMPORTANT. So not that you have the tweeter speaker wires going through the side panel, you need to connect the tweeter wire to the bass blocker, and the bass blocker to the extra speaker wire. All you have to do is twist one end of the bass blocker to one end of the tweeter wire and the other end of the bass block to the one end of the extra speaker wire, and put black electrical tape over it. Now, you have to twist the other end of the tweeter wire to the other end of the extra speaker wire and rape black electrical tape over it as well.
4) After you have run the wires into place, take the end of the speaker wire that is running from the tweeters and stick it into or rape it around the end of the terminal of the interior speakers.
5) At this point you should be able to turn on your radio and hear sound coming from your tweeters.
6) Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the other tweeter.
7) In addition, I had connected 4 tweeters in my last car. I had two bridged off the front speakers and the other two bridged off the rear.
8) I must WARN you that two is enough. I nearly blown my ear drums with four.If you found this helpful. Please feel free to post a note. Thanks and enjoy.
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